Climbing roses - these are types of rose hips and some varieties of garden roses with long branching shoots. All of them are representatives of the Rosehip genus and occupy one of the leading places in vertical gardening of gazebos, walls and buildings, perfectly combined with architectural forms of large and small sizes. Climbing roses are indispensable for creating decorative garden structures such as pyramids, columns, garlands, gazebos and arches.
They look great in compositions with other flowers and plants, therefore they are as popular as any shrub or indoor rose.
Read more about growing climbing roses below.
It is too difficult to give a general description of climbing roses due to their huge variety, so we suggest that you first familiarize yourself with the classification of climbing roses adopted in international floriculture practice.
The first group of climbing roses, the so-called climbing roses, or rambler roses (Rambler) are plants with long creeping or arcuate flexible bright green thorny stems up to five or more meters long. The leaves of the climbing rose Rambler are leathery, shiny and small. Flowers - faint, simple, semi-double or double, up to 2.5 cm in diameter - are collected in inflorescences and are located along the entire length of the shoot. Abundant flowering of climbing roses of this group lasts a little more than a month in the first half of summer. Most of the varieties are frost-hardy and winters well under light cover.
Plants of the Rambler group originated from species such as the Vihura rose and the multiflora rose (multiflora).
As a result of crossing a group of rambler roses with tea, hybrid tea, remontant roses and a floribunda rose, a group of climbing roses with shoots up to four meters in length was formed, which were called climbing - Climber, or climbing large-flowered roses - clays. Roses of this group bloom profusely with large flowers - from 4 cm in diameter and more - collected in small loose inflorescences, many varieties bloom twice a season. The shape of the flowers resembles hybrid tea roses. Plants of this group are relatively winter-hardy and are almost not affected by powdery mildew.
The third group, Climbing, was formed by mutating large-flowered bush roses - hybrid tea, grandiflora and floribunda. Climing differs from producing species only in stronger growth, later fruiting and even larger flowers - from four to eleven centimeters in diameter, which grow singly or in small inflorescences. Many varieties of klaimings bloom again. Roses of this group are grown only in the southern regions of the temperate zone with mild warm winters.
All types of roses are quite capricious - it's not for nothing that the rose is called the queen of flowers. Climbing roses are no exception - planting and caring for climbing roses should be thought out to the smallest detail, and you should start growing climbing roses with choosing a site. These plants need bright light in the first half of the day so that the sun can dry the dew on the leaves and leave no chances for fungal diseases to settle on the roses, but the midday sun can already cause burns on the leaves and delicate petals of the plant, so in the afternoon, the area with climbing roses must be protected from direct rays.
In addition, the place where climbing roses grow should be protected from the cold north and northeast winds, and the location of the climbing rose on the corner of the building is undesirable because of the drafts that oppress the delicate plant. It is best to place climbing roses on the south side of the building, especially since they do not require much space - a strip of earth fifty centimeters wide is enough to plant roses, provided that the nearest wall, plant and any other object are no closer from the rose than beyond half a meter.
The soil for climbing roses should be permeable, but where the groundwater is too close to the surface, roses are planted on specially arranged elevations - the root system of climbing roses sometimes goes two meters deep. To avoid stagnation of water in the roots, roses are planted on an area located at a slope, at least minimal. Of all types of soils, loam is most suitable for climbing roses.
Too light sandy or heavy clay soils will have to be adapted: sand is added to the clay for digging to the depth of the bayonet, and clay is added to the sandy soil, and in order for the soil to become fertile, humus or humus must be added to them together with bone meal as a phosphorus fertilizer ... It is necessary to prepare a site for a rose in advance - preferably six months or at least a month or two before planting.
As for the timing of planting, in a temperate climate, it is best to plant roses from the last decade of September to mid-October. Roses can also be planted in spring - from mid-April to late May.
Before proceeding to the description of the planting process, it makes sense to talk about which planting material to prefer. Both seedlings of self-rooted roses and seedlings of roses grafted on rose hips are on sale.
What's the difference between them? Grafted roses differ from rooted roses in that their root represents one plant, and the shoots represent another, that is, the grafted varietal climbing rose is grafted onto the rosehip root. Therefore, both planting and caring for a grafted rose, although slightly, differ from planting and caring for a rooted rose. For example, the planting depth of the grafted rose should be such that the grafting site is 10 cm below the surface level.
A grafted rose planted in this way begins to form roots from the cultivated part of the bush, and the roots of the wild rose, losing their purpose, gradually die off. If the grafting site is left above the surface, the plant will be depleted and eventually die, since the cultivated part of the seedling is evergreen, and the dog rose is a deciduous plant, and this discrepancy between the scion and rootstock, if improperly planted, will lead to a sad end.
Saplings of climbing roses with an open root system should be soaked in water for a day before planting. Then you need to remove the leaves from the shoots, cut off the immature and broken shoots with pruning shears, powdering the cuts with crushed coal, shorten both the roots and the ground part to 30 cm, remove the buds located below the graft site from the grafted seedlings, so that rose hips do not develop from them. After that, the seedlings are disinfected by immersing them in a three percent solution of copper sulfate.
Planting holes for climbing roses are dug 50x50 in size, keeping a distance between them of at least a meter. The top, fertile soil layer, removed from each pit, is mixed with half a bucket of manure and part of this mixture is poured into the pits, then the holes are well spilled with water. This should be done a day or two before planting. On the day of planting, prepare a mixture for pre-planting rose roots. To do this, dissolve three tablets of phosphorobacterin and one tablet of heteroauxin in half a liter of water and pour this solution into nine and a half liters of clay talker. Dip the roots of the seedling into the chatter box before lowering them into the hole.
Pour a mound of a mixture of earth with manure on the bottom of the pit, put a seedling on it, the roots of which have been treated with a talker, gently straighten the roots, fill them with the same mixture of soil and manure and carefully tamp the surface. And remember: the graft site of a rose grafted on a rose hip should be at a depth of about ten centimeters underground, and the root collar of a self-rooted rose should be at least five centimeters. After planting, the rose is watered abundantly, and when the water is absorbed, add earth to the trunk circle and spud the seedling to a height of at least 20 cm.
Climbing roses planted in spring lag behind in development compared to roses planted in autumn by two weeks and require more attention. Before planting, the shoots of the seedlings are shortened to 15-20 cm, and the roots - up to 30 cm. After planting, the seedlings are watered abundantly, hilled high and covered with a film to create greenhouse conditions that contribute to a faster survival of the seedlings. The film must be lifted daily for several minutes to ventilate the seedlings. It is advisable to gradually increase the airing time, since hardening of the seedlings occurs simultaneously with it.
When the threat of recurrent frosts has passed, the film is removed, and the site is mulched. If you planted roses after frost in dry warm weather, after planting, mulch the trunks with peat or any other suitable material.
Caring for climbing roses consists in regularly watering the plant, feeding, pruning, combating possible diseases or pests, and preparing for winter. Due to the peculiarities of the structure, climbing roses need support. Climbing roses are quite drought-resistant, and they do not need a lot of water - they are moistened once a week or in a decade on the principle “less is better, but more often,” that is, 1-2 buckets of water are consumed for each bush. To prevent water from spreading, make a low earthen rampart around the trunk circle. Two to three days after watering, in order to retain moisture in the soil and provide air access to the roots, the soil is loosened around the bush to a depth of 5-6 cm.
To reduce the laboriousness of caring for roses, mulch the soil of the near-trunk circle with peat, then you will have to water and loosen the soil much less often.
Young bushes are not fed until August, since the nutrients contained in the soil have not yet been consumed; closer to autumn, a solution of potassium salts is introduced into the soil to prepare roses for wintering. It is best to use an infusion of wood ash for these purposes. When feeding the bushes of the second year of life, organic fertilizers alternate with mineral fertilizers, and from the third year they switch exclusively to organic fertilizing, which can be used as a solution of one liter of manure and a glass of wood ash in a bucket of water.
Manure can be replaced with any other organic fertilizer. During the growing season, it is necessary to make at least five dressings. No fertilizer is applied during flowering.
The variety of supports for climbing roses is amazing: you can use an old dry tree, a trellis or an arch made of metal, wood or polymers as a support, as well as metal rods curved in an arc. However, no other plant will adorn a faceless wall or an unattractive building, like climbing roses planted no closer than half a meter from the wall. Place a lattice or vertical guides on the wall, to which you will tie up growing and flowering shoots, and an unremarkable structure will be transformed.
However, you should be aware that on horizontally located lashes, flowers appear along their entire length, and on vertically fixed ones - only in their upper part.
Plastic twine is used as a fastening material, and in no case do they use wire, coming up with all sorts of tricks, for example, wrapping the wire with paper or cloth. The stems are firmly attached to the support, trying, nevertheless, so that the twine does not injure the stem. Inspect the supports regularly, as they sometimes break under the weight of branches or from the wind, and this can lead to severe damage to the plant. You need to dig in the support structure no closer than 30-50 cm from the bush.
An adult plant is usually transplanted only for the sake of saving it, if time has shown that the place for the rose is not chosen well. Climbing roses are transplanted in the fall - in September or early October, no later, so that the plant has time to take root in a new place before winter. Sometimes the transplant is carried out in the spring, before the buds awaken. Before transplanting, the roses are removed from the support, all young shoots are kept from ramblers, but their tops are pinched at the end of August in order to accelerate the lignification of the shoots, and shoots older than two years are removed.
For climbers and climbers, all long shoots are cut in half. Then the bushes are carefully dug in a circle, stepping back from the center at a distance equal to two bayonets of a shovel. You need to dig deep, trying to keep the entire root system intact. Having dug up the plant, shake off the ground from its roots, cut off the dangling and shaggy ends of the roots with a pruner, and transplant the plant into a pre-prepared hole, straightening the roots when planting so that they do not bend. After you fill the hole with the potting mix, compact the surface and sprinkle with plenty of water.
After a few days, when the soil has sediment, add more earthen mixture to level the surface of the site, and do not forget to huddle the plant high.
Of insects, climbing roses are bothered by aphids and spider mites. If the infestation of a rose with aphids is not total, try to cope with pests with folk remedies without resorting to chemicals. You can remove aphids mechanically: hold the bud, leaf or stem with your gloved hands and remove the aphid. This method is good if the aphid has just appeared, but if it has already got used to your rose and has begun to multiply, grate the soap, fill it with water, let the solution brew and, when the soap dissolves, strain the solution and spray the roses with it.
If this measure does not work, buy an aphid insecticide from the store, which is marked "for roses and grapes," and treat the rose with it, choosing for this a quiet, windless evening.
As for spider mites, they appear on plants exclusively in a dry, sultry period, if you chronically forget to water them. Ticks settle on the underside of leaves, feed on their sap, entangling the leaves with cobwebs. The leaves of the affected plant become silvery. In the fight against spider mites, such folk remedies as infusions of yarrow, wormwood, tobacco or makhorka have proven themselves well, after processing with which on the third day from 80 to 100% of insects die.
Wormwood infusion is done like this: a pound of fresh wormwood is placed in a wooden vessel, poured with ten liters of cold water and left for two weeks for fermentation, then the sourdough is filtered, diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10 and the rose and the soil around it are treated with the composition. If the situation requires urgent measures, treatment of the plant with Fitoverm will help, which, if necessary, can be repeated after two weeks. The method of administration and dosage are indicated in the instructions for use of the drug.
The rose also has other pests - rose sawfly, cicada, leafworm, thrips, but if you follow the conditions of the plant's agricultural technology, they will not become a problem for you. As a preventive measure, you can plant marigolds around the rose - this neighborhood will save the rose from many troubles. In addition, develop a habit of spring and autumn preventive spraying of roses with Bordeaux liquid.
Of the diseases for roses, the most dangerous are coniotirium, bacterial cancer, powdery mildew, gray rot and black spot.
Bacterial cancer manifests itself as lumpy soft growths of various sizes, hardening over time and darkening from decomposition. The rose dries up and dies. There is no cure for bacterial cancer. Carefully inspect the planting material before buying, and before planting, disinfect the roots of the seedlings for two to three minutes in a three percent solution of copper sulfate. If you find signs of the disease on an adult bush, immediately remove the suspicious parts of the plant and treat the wounds with a solution of copper sulfate of the same consistency.
Coniotirium - a fungal disease, the so-called cancer or bark burn. It is found in the spring, when the shelter is removed from the roses: red-brown spots appear on the bark, gradually turning black and turning into rings around the shoot. Such shoots must be immediately cut off, capturing part of healthy tissue, and burned to avoid contamination of other plants. To avoid the disease, nitrogen application should be stopped before wintering, replacing it with potash fertilizers, which strengthen the plant tissues. In addition, during thaws, you need to ventilate the roses under cover.
Powdery mildew looks like a whitish bloom on the ground parts of the plant, eventually acquiring a brown tint. Increased air humidity and sharp temperature fluctuations, excess nitrogen in the soil and improper watering contribute to the appearance of the disease. All affected parts of the plant are cut out and burned, after which the rose is treated with a 3% solution of iron or 2% solution of copper sulfate.
Black spot It is manifested by the appearance on the leaves of dark red-brown spots in a yellow rim, which merge with the development of the disease, causing premature leaf fall. The disease can be prevented by the autumn feeding of roses with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers at the root, as well as a three-stage treatment of the bush and the ground around it with a three-percent solution of Bordeaux mixture or ferrous sulfate at intervals of a week.
Gray rot destroys stems, shoots, buds and leaves of climbing roses, sharply reduces their decorative effect, reducing the intensity of flowering. If the disease has taken effect, the plant will have to be dug up and destroyed, but if you found it at the very beginning, you can destroy the fungal infection by treating the bush with a solution of 100 g of Bordeaux liquid in a bucket of water. If it is not possible to defeat the disease at once, the treatment can be repeated three more times at weekly intervals.
Sometimes, with absolute and obvious health, the climbing rose does not bloom, and you study with bewilderment the diseases of roses and their symptoms, but you cannot understand what the reason is. Sometimes the fact is that you bought an unsuccessful variety - poorly flowering, and besides, the location or composition of the soil turned out to be not what the rose requires. Or maybe the fact is that last year's shoots did not endure the winter well. Analyze all the information about climbing roses, and you will surely find the reason.
Pruning climbing roses is necessary to form the crown, stimulate abundant flowering along the entire height of the bush and to support the decorativeness of the plant that adorns a particular object. Correct pruning can ensure that roses bloom almost continuously throughout the growing season. Particular attention should be paid to vegetative shoots, since the flowering of the bush mainly occurs on the shoots of the last year.
Pruning is carried out in spring and autumn. At the beginning of the growing season, dead shoots and frostbite areas are removed from climbing roses of any group, and the ends of the shoots are cut to a strong outer bud. Subsequent pruning depends on how many times your rose blooms once or more during the growing season.
Roses that bloom once a season form flowers on last year's shoots. Instead of faded (basal) shoots, from three to ten recovery shoots are formed, which will bloom next year, therefore, after flowering, the basal shoots must be cut at the root, and this is better done in the fall, when preparing the plant for winter. In re-blooming roses, within three years, flowering branches of different orders are formed on the main shoots - from two to five. The flowering of these shoots weakens by the fifth year, therefore the main shoots in early spring should be cut to the ground after the fourth year of life.
Re-flowering bushes should have one to three annual recovery shoots and three to seven main flowering shoots. However, most of the climbing roses bloom on overwintered shoots, from which only the tops with underdeveloped buds are removed in the spring.
Particular attention should be paid to young grafted roses planted in the current or last year: until the cultivated scion acquires its own root system, the roots of the rosehip rootstock will give abundant shoots that must be removed immediately. After a year or two, when the rosehip root dies off, the shoots will already give the roots of the scion.
Climbing roses are propagated by seeds, as well as by layering, cuttings and grafting. It is easiest to propagate a rose by layering, and propagation by cuttings gives good results. As for seed propagation, it is better to buy seed for this purpose in the store, since the seeds collected from roses growing in the garden do not retain the varietal characteristics of the parent plant, so it is not known what kind of rose will grow from them. However, for the sake of experiment, it is worth trying: in the end, what are you risking?
Buy from the store or collect the seeds of roses growing in your garden, put them in a sieve and put them in a bowl of hydrogen peroxide for half an hour - this measure helps to disinfect the seeds and prevents the appearance of mold during the subsequent stratification of the seed. Then spread the seeds on cotton pads moistened with hydrogen peroxide and cover with the same peroxide-soaked discs on top, put these "sandwiches" in individual plastic bags, write the date and variety name on them, put them in a container and put them in the vegetable section of the refrigerator.
Check the condition of the seeds from time to time, and if you notice mold, soak them again in peroxide, change the discs for new ones soaked in the same composition, and put them back in the refrigerator. After one and a half to two months, transfer the germinated seeds to individual peat tablets or pots, mulching the surface with a thin layer of perlite to avoid infection with a black leg. Seedlings will need ten hour daylight hours and watering as the soil dries.
With the normal development of seedlings, the first buds will appear within two months after planting the seeds in pots, and after another month and a half, the first flowers will open. Continue caring for the seedlings, feed them with a weak solution of complex fertilizer, and in the spring, plant them in open ground and take care of them like an adult plant.
The easiest way is to reproduce roses by cuttings, since in most cases this method gives one hundred percent result. You can cut cuttings from flowering or fading shoots from mid-June to early August. The segment must have at least two internodes. The lower cut of the cutting is made under the bud at an angle of 45º, the upper cut is straight, as far from the bud as possible. The lower leaves are removed from the cutting, the upper ones are shortened by half. The stalk is stuck 1 cm deep into a pot of sand or a mixture of sand and soil, covered with a glass jar or a plastic bottle and placed in a bright place, protected from direct sunlight.
Water the soil in a pot without removing the can. It is only necessary to process the lower cut of the cutting with a root-forming agent before planting if you are dealing with a variety that does not root well, but in most cases, rooting of cuttings is easy.
The shoot you have planned in the spring is cut under the buds, laid in a dug groove 10-15 cm wide and about the same depth, at the bottom of which a layer of humus is laid, sprinkled with a layer of earth, the layering is fixed in several places and covered with soil so that the top of the layering remains above the surface of the site. When watering the bush, do not forget to water the buried cuttings. One year later, next spring, separate the cuttings from the mother plant and transplant it to a new location.
Grafting a cultivated rose eye on a rosehip root is called budding. This procedure is carried out from the end of July to the end of August. Before grafting, the rosehip is watered abundantly, then a T-shaped incision is made on the root collar of the stock, the bark is pryed off and slightly pulled away from the wood. A peephole is cut from the cuttings of a cultivated rose together with the adjacent bark and a layer of wood, the peephole is tightly inserted into the T-shaped incision and the grafting site is tightly wrapped with an eyelid film.
After that, the rose hips are huddled at least 5 cm above the inoculation site, after two weeks the bandage can be loosened, and in the spring of next year the film is removed completely.
In early autumn, climbing rose bushes begin to gradually prepare for winter. From the end of August, they stop watering, loosen the soil around them, nitrogen in top dressing is replaced with potassium. The tops of unripe shoots are cut off. All climbing roses hibernate under cover, but for this they must first be removed from the support and laid on the ground. A young bush can be laid easily, but an old, powerful climbing rose can be bent to the ground for more than one day, you may need a whole week for this, and the process should take place at above-zero temperatures, since even with a slight frost, the stems become fragile and break. Consider this.
They cover the rose when the temperature drops to -5 ºC, you should not do this earlier, because the rose will not have time to get hardened, moreover, it can grow out or start growing, being too long under the shelter without air. You need to cover climbing roses in dry, calm weather. Remove the roses from the support, clean the branches from the foliage, cut off the damaged shoots, tie the lashes with a rope and carefully lay them on a bed of spruce branches or dry leaves (never put roses on bare ground!).
Press or pin the roses to the ground, cover them on top with spruce branches, dry leaves or dry grass, cover the base of the bush with sand or earth, then cover the lying roses with plastic wrap, lutrasil, roofing felt or some other waterproof material so that between the rose and the film there was an air gap.
During winter thaws in clear dry weather, open the film for a while, letting the roses breathe winter air - this will do them good. However, do not remove spruce branches or leaves! As soon as signs of spring appear, remove the film - being under cover all winter without fresh air can get sick roses. Do not be afraid that they may freeze - you did not forget to cover them with spruce branches.
We offer you an acquaintance with some of the popular varieties of climbing roses, which we have divided into groups for convenience. So:
We offer you an acquaintance with another group of climbing roses - these are the so-called Cordes hybrids, which, for some unknown reason, are not singled out in a separate group, but are included in the group of ramblers:
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Gardeners have always admired the climbing rose with its long branches strewn with luxurious flowers.
Curly roses (photos and videos of these blooming beauties are simply mesmerizing) - a perennial aristocrat, with graceful leaves and an abundance of bright fragrant flowers, they act as an exquisite and sophisticated decoration of the garden all summer long. Growing and caring for them in many ways repeat the agrotechnical techniques used in the cultivation of bush roses, but there are some important features.
Climbing roses - varieties of constant flowering - prefer sunny areas located on the south side. Thanks to good lighting, the growth of growth is accelerated, and already the next summer after planting, you can observe abundant flowering. It is unacceptable to plant young plants in a lowland, since the rose does not tolerate stagnant moisture well
Important! In cases where flowers are planted in order to decorate an object, it is best to plant a seedling 50 cm away from it.
Experts advise planting bushes in the spring months at sunset. In the fall, seedlings do not have time to adapt and most often die.
Continuously blooming varieties of roses will decorate the site and do not require complex maintenance.
Important! If you still need to plant a bush in the fall, it is best to do this in September, when the rose has time to take root, but will not grow.
In the following years after planting, the seedlings do not require complex care, however, it is important to carry out in a timely manner:
By pruning shrubs, you can give your plants the desired shape. It is recommended to water the roses every 7-8 days, and add organic matter and minerals to the soil as a top dressing.
Note! Plants are planted at a slight slope to the support. If planting is carried out near the house, such a distance should be ensured that the water that will drain does not collect at the roots.
Fertile loamy soil with good drainage is ideal for growing climbing roses. Heavy loams and pure sand are contraindicated. Clay soil should be diluted with sand, and clay should be added to sandy soil. A small amount of garden lime is recommended. Also, to increase the fertility of the soil for digging the site, they make: humus, phosphorus fertilizers, special soil bacteria (phosphorobacterin).
Prepare the site a couple of months before planting. It should be dug up several times, add the appropriate additives.
Spray rose is an unpretentious type of ornamental plant that does not require special attention. To get beautiful flowers, experienced summer residents recommend using the secrets of plant care and reproduction.
The correct choice of seedlings is the key to obtaining a strong and beautiful plant. Plants packaged in plastic bags with a nutritious soil mixture and with an open root system are going on the mass sale. Breeders recommend giving preference to the first type of flowers.
Signs of a healthy plant:
Before planting, it is imperative to prune the planting material, during which buds, dry branches and damaged stems are removed. The maximum number of eyes should be 5. Cutting points must be treated with garden varnish.
Placing seedlings in water with sodium humate overnight is a prerequisite before planting.
The choice of a planting site for your favorite plant depends on its variety. For some species, the most favorable place for growth and development are sun beds, and for others, places with partial shade, where the buds will always have juicy and rich shades.
The planting process consists of several main stages:
If the planting is planned for the fall, then from the summer it is necessary to actively prepare the land in the flowerbed.
Basic recommendations for preliminary preparation of the landing site:
If planting is planned for the spring, gardeners recommend simply digging up the site and adding fertilizer to the ground. By the arrival of spring, the soil will be enriched with minerals and for planting it will be enough just to dig a hole of the required size.
Before forming a flower bed, one must take into account the type of plants that grew in front of the roses. Quince, cherry and hawthorn will have a negative impact on the rose garden. To create favorable conditions for the growth and development of flowers, it is necessary to replace the topsoil.
To normalize the acid balance, ash should be added to acidic soil, and humus, compost and needles should be added to alkaline soil.
Climbing roses occupy one of the leading places in vertical gardening, go well with small architectural forms, are indispensable in the creation of decorative columns, pyramids, arches, trellises, green decoration of the walls of buildings, balconies, gazebos.
© Jess Beemouse
These roses are grown in areas with a relatively mild, warm climate, where they do not need to be covered for the winter.... In central Russia, it is difficult to apply them on a large scale, but in household and garden plots they can be grown in most of the non-chernozem, forest-steppe and steppe zones, but be sure to cover them for the winter. Climbing roses, in turn, can also be classified. Different authors divide climbing roses in different ways and, when describing varieties, proceed from their own criteria.
In international practice, the following classification is usually applied:
The climbing group includes, first of all, real climbing or so-called curly (Rambler) roses with long flexible creeping or arcuate-rising shoots (lashes) from 1.5 to 5 m or more in length... Their shoots are bright green and covered with thin crooked thorns. The flowers are small (2-2.5 cm in diameter), double, semi-double or simple of various colors. The flowers are generally weak-minded and collected in inflorescences. Real climbing roses bloom very profusely, mainly once for 30-35 days in the first half of summer. Flowers are located along the entire length of overwintered shoots. The leaves are small, leathery and shiny. Most varieties are quite winter-hardy, winter well under a light dry shelter. This group of roses is derived from the related species R. Wichuroiana and the multiflora rose (R. multiflora) native to East Asia. In the 19th century, hybrid forms of these roses were introduced to culture in Europe.
Subsequently, they were repeatedly crossed with tea, tea-hybrid, floribunda, remontant. As a result of crosses and selections, modern climbing varieties with strong growth and long, up to 2-4 m, shoots were obtained... These are the so-called climbing roses (Climber), they are also called large-flowered climbing roses. They bloom abundantly and the flowers are larger than those of real climbing roses (over 4 cm in diameter). Flowers are collected in loose small inflorescences. In the shape of the flower, some varieties of this group resemble hybrid tea roses, many varieties bloom again. They are relatively winter-hardy and resistant to powdery mildew disease or are weakly affected by it. This is the second variety, part of the climbing group.
And, finally, the third variety is climbing forms that have arisen as a result of bud mutations (Sport) obtained from hybrid tea, floribunda, grandiflora, i.e. from large-flowered bush roses... They differ from parental varieties only by strong growth and later entry into fruiting. They are called "climbings" and the climbing shape of the variety is indicated by adding the word Climbing to the name of the variety. In these varieties, even larger flowers - from 4 to 11 cm, single or in small inflorescences. In our country, "climbings" can be used in landscaping, mainly only in the southern regions with milder winters. In the middle lane, they are severely damaged by the coniotirium.
© Monica Arellano-Ongpin
Location: sunny and ventilated. Roses are light-loving plants, so it is best to plant them on the walls and supports of the southern and southwestern exposure. Preference should still be given to the southern exposure. Good illumination helps the growth to ripen, which will bloom next year.
Landing: a strip of earth 50 - 60 cm wide is enough. They are planted in pre-prepared pits 50 x 50 cm in size. If the pits are dry, the day before planting, they must be watered and manure must be applied - not less than half a bucket in each hole. In order for the bush to be strong and bloom profusely, after planting, the plant must be cut 15 - 20 cm from the soil level. Climbing roses used to decorate walls and other objects are planted at a distance of at least 45 cm from the planting object.
Care: from the second year after planting, climbing roses are content with little care, which consists in rare but abundant watering, feeding and pruning. Dead branches are pruned to stimulate additional flowering. Roses are watered every 8 to 10 days. The soil around the plant is mulched with sawdust, humus, straw, grass. The cow dung, which is applied at planting, is used by the plants for two years. In subsequent years, fertilizers are needed, especially organic ones. In addition to manure, roses can be fed with mineral and complex fertilizers: TMAU (peat-mineral nitrogenous), flower mixture, etc. During the growing season, four to five additional fertilizing are required.
© Jess Beemouse
Climbing roses need pruning... Its main goal is crown formation, obtaining abundant and long flowering, maintaining plants in a healthy state. In addition, pruning helps to achieve a continuous shoot coverage of the object near which the plants are planted. When pruning, special attention is paid to the regrowth and development of vegetative shoots, since flowering in climbing roses occurs on the growth of the last year.
With good care, roses grow long shoots over the summer period, up to 2-3.5 m... They are sheltered for the winter. In the spring of next year, only the frozen and podoprevshie shoots and the ends of the shoots are pruned on a strong external bud. The shoots that survived after overwintering are first spread on the ground so that strong replacement shoots develop at the base of the bush, ensuring the flowering of the bush for the next year. After the young shoots of replacement have reached a length of 50-70 cm, the old shoots, on which flowering should take place this year, are tied to supports. In the future, the pruning of climbing roses is carried out, depending on how these roses bloom, once or twice. These groups of roses differ significantly in the nature of flowering and shoots.
The former form flowering branches on last year's shoots. They do not bloom again. In replacement of faded shoots, the so-called basic (basal), these roses form from 3 to 10 regeneration (replacement) shoots, which will bloom for the next season. In this case, the basal shoots after flowering are cut to the base, like in raspberries. Thus, bushes of single-flowering climbing roses should only consist of 3-5 annual and 3-5 biennial flowering shoots.
If climbing roses belong to the group of re-flowering, then flowering branches of different orders (from 2 to 5) are formed on the main shoots within three years, the flowering of such shoots weakens by the fifth year... Therefore, the main shoots are cut after the fourth year to the base. If many new strong recovery shoots are formed at the base of these shoots (which usually happens when the roses are well tended), then the main shoots are cut out as in the first group. For bushes with repeated flowering, it is sufficient to have 1 to 3 annual recovery shoots and 3 to 7 flowering main shoots. Re-blooming roses are recommended to be pruned in early spring. The point of pruning is to leave a limited number of the strongest, youngest and longest branches on the bush. If the lashes are too long compared to the support, they must be trimmed.
It is important to remember that climbing roses bloom on overwintered shoots, which must be preserved for their entire length, remove only the very tops with underdeveloped buds... When cultivated in a high agricultural background, climbing roses can form recovery shoots in excessive quantities. This thickens the bush very much, weakens flowering and makes it difficult for shelter for the winter. Therefore, for abundant flowering of climbing roses, they should be pruned and the number of shoots should be regulated.
When pruning varieties from different groups of roses, you need to remember that flower buds are formed at different heights of the axial shoot... On this basis, curly roses can be divided into three groups.
In plants of the first group, each wintering bud on the last year's axial shoot, with the exception of 5-10 of the lowest ones, differentiates into a flower... This phenomenon is typical for most varieties from the Vihuriana and Multiflora groups. Therefore, varieties of roses from these groups can be pruned depending on the height of the landscaped object.
In plants of the second group, flower buds are formed only in the upper and middle parts of the axial shoot, the lower buds remain vegetative... For varieties of this group ‘Paul Scarlett Climber’, ‘Glen Dale’ and others, you can use high or medium pruning.
The third group includes plants in which only the buds located in the upper part of the axial shoot turn into flowering ones, while the lower and middle ones remain vegetative. These are mainly varieties of roses from the Banks group according to L. Uleiskaya, which need high pruning.
On an adult rose bush, remove as many old lashes as new ones appear from the base... For semi-growing roses from the Cordes and Lambert groups according to L. Uleiskaya, reaching a height of 3 m, high or medium pruning is recommended. With regular low pruning, these plants can take the shape of a bush.
Pruning large-flowered varieties requires great attention.... The length of their lashes should be commensurate with the size of the bush. If the bush is very strong, as, for example, the 'Climing Gloria Day' variety, it is necessary to leave long lashes, in shorter bushes they should be shorter. If the branches of this group of roses are cut very shortly, then instead of flowering shoots, only vegetative ones will begin to grow. Often varieties of this group do not bloom. To achieve their flowering, you need to shorten the branches a little and tie them horizontally or obliquely.
Proper pruning and careful selection of varieties can ensure almost continuous flowering of roses in your garden during the growing season.at. Along with pruning, an important role is played by the garter of climbing roses, which should provide an inclined, horizontal or spiral arrangement of branches, which prevents the growth of vegetative shoots and stimulates the development of flowers.
© Jess Beemouse
Roses require shelter. It is important to remember one thing: between the roses and the shelter (film, roofing, etc.) there must be an air space on top... Roses die not so much from frost as from soaking and damping out during long winter thaws or in spring, when the covering material becomes denser and does not allow air to pass through well. It should be remembered that the preparation of roses for winter begins long before the onset of frost. Already at the end of August, it is necessary to stop watering and loosening the soil. At this time, it is no longer possible to feed the roses with nitrogen, but it is necessary to make potassium dressings to strengthen the tissue of the shoots. Roses should be covered for the winter only with the onset of steady drops in temperature to minus 5-6 ° C. Light frosts not only do not harm the roses, but even contribute to better ripening of the shoots and harden the plants. Premature shelter leads to the fact that the plants germinate and weed out due to lack of air. The shelter is carried out in dry weather. Climbing roses are removed from the support, damaged or rotten shoots are cut out and cleaned of leaves. After that, they twist, tie the lashes with twine and pin them with metal or wooden hooks to the ground. It is advisable to put dry leaves or spruce branches under them. From above, the shoots are covered with any covering material: dry leaves, spruce branches, wooden boxes, etc.
Propagate well by summer and winter cuttings... The easiest way is green cuttings, most climbing roses give almost 100% rooting. Green cuttings begin in mid-June and end in early August. Cuttings are cut from flowering or fading shoots with 1-2 internodes. The lower end is made oblique (at an angle of 45 °) directly under the kidney, the upper end is straight away from the kidney. The lower leaves are completely removed, and the rest are cut in half. The cuttings are planted in a substrate (in a mixture of earth and sand or in clean sand) in a pot or box to a depth of 0.5-1 cm. The cuttings are covered with a glass jar or film on top and shaded from the sun. Watering is carried out without removing the film. Climbing roses usually root well without the use of growth substances. If it is known that the variety is rooting poorly, then the cuttings are treated with an aqueous solution of heteroauxin (40-45 mg, or 0.5 tablets, per 1 liter of water) before planting for 12-15 hours, immersing the tips of the shoots in a solution of 3 cm. treat with an alcohol solution (50 ml of 96% ethyl alcohol, 50 ml of water and 400 g of heteroauxin) for 5 seconds immediately before planting.
Only a small number of varieties from the large-flowered group are propagated by budding... It is carried out in August - early September with a sleeping eye in the root collar of a one- or two-year-old dog rose.
© Jess Beemouse
Snow White. The flowers are white, 12 cm in diameter, double (45 - 50 petals) with a pleasant aroma, In inflorescences up to nine flowers. Shrub up to 3 m high, with dark green dense leaves. Suitable for landscaping low-rise buildings of various configurations. Resistant to pests and diseases.
Aelita. The flowers are white with a greenish tinge, goblet, 6.5 cm in diameter, double (48 petals), fragrant. Shrub up to 3 m high, with shiny small leaves. Repeats flowering. Suitable for gardening fences, low buildings, for group planting and cutting. Resistant to pests and diseases.
Belyanka... The flowers are white, slightly creamy with a pink center, 7 - 8 cm in diameter, double (35 - 50 petals), fragrant. The bush is up to 3 m high, with dark green dense glossy leaves. Repeats flowering and blooms very profusely. Suitable for landscaping walls, fences, arbor, as well as for cutting.
Maiden Dreams. The flowers are orange-pink to coral, 6 cm in diameter, double (25 petals), the edges of the petals are corrugated and cut, in inflorescences up to 30 flowers. The bush is up to 3 m high, the leaves are dark green. Suitable for landscaping low-rise buildings, effective in boles.
Red Lighthouse. The flowers are fiery red with an orange tint, saucer-shaped, 8.3 cm in diameter, semi-double (21 petals), in inflorescences up to 13 flowers. Shrub up to 3.5 m high, with shiny dark green leaves. Suitable for landscaping hedges, arbors, for single and group plantings and for boles. Resistant to pests and diseases.
Miskhor Stars. The flowers are orange-red, 8 cm in diameter, semi-double (19 petals), single or in inflorescences (up to 12 flowers). The bush is up to 3 m high, the leaves are dark green. Repeats flowering. Suitable for gardening fences, pergolas, arches, arbors.
Orange Sun. The flowers are pale orange, beautifully shaped, 12 cm in diameter, densely double (95 petals), with a weak aroma. Shrub up to 3 m high, with dark green dense glossy leaves. Suitable for gardening fences, walls, hedges and for cutting. Resistant to pests and diseases.
Pink News. The flowers are pale pink, 7-8 cm in diameter, semi-double (15-20 petals), with a fruity aroma. Shrub up to 3 m high, with tenacious shoots. The leaves are bright green, slightly corrugated. Repeats flowering. Suitable for landscaping pyramids, trellises, arches, pergolas, columns, as well as for boles.
Constellation Gagarin... The flowers are fiery orange-red, 7 cm in diameter, double (30 petals), in inflorescences up to 13 flowers. Shrub up to 3 m high, with dark green dense leaves. Suitable for gardening arbors, arches, walls, trellises and for single plantings.
Alberic Barbier. The flowers are white with a creamy center 6.2 cm in diameter, densely double (up to 145 petals), single or in inflorescences (up to six flowers), with a weak aroma. Shrub up to 8 m high, with tenacious creeping shoots and shiny dark green foliage. Flowering is profuse and long lasting. Very often, flowering is repeated in the fall. Suitable for all types of vertical gardening. Resistant to pests and diseases.
Albertine. The flowers are salmon pink, 8 cm in diameter, double (33 petals), saucer-shaped, single or in inflorescences (up to seven flowers), with a strong aroma. Shrub up to b m. Leaves are light green. Suitable for gardening fences, gazebos, pergolas, covered alleys, for boles. Resistant to pests and diseases.
Glen Dale. The flowers are white, lemon-yellow in buds, goblet, 10 cm in diameter, double (28 petals), fragrant. Climbing bush, up to 3.5 m high. Leaves are dark green, dense, shiny. Long, moderate flowering. Suitable for landscaping walls, arbors, trunks, hedges, pergolas. Resistant to pests and diseases.
Buildings... The flowers are carmine-pink, 3 cm in diameter, double (90 petals), cupped, in inflorescences up to 22 flowers. Curly bush, 4 m high. Leaves are light green. Abundant flowering, repeated in some years. Suitable for landscaping slopes, pergolas, balconies, hedges, arranging garlands, as well as weeping boles. Resistant to pests and diseases.
Coronation... The flowers are bright carmine red, 4.2 cm in diameter, double (32 petals), cupped, in inflorescences up to 17 flowers. The bush is up to 8 m high. The leaves are light green. The flowering is very abundant. Suitable for all types of vertical gardening.
New Down... The flowers are pale pink with a salmon tint, 7.2 cm in diameter, semi-double (23 petals), with a pleasant apple scent, single or in inflorescences (up to 20 flowers). Climbing bush, 3.4 m high, with dark green shiny foliage. The flowering is very abundant and repetitive. Suitable for landscaping walls, hedges, terraces, gazebos, pergolas, slopes and for single plantings. In some years it is affected by powdery mildew.
The most common on climbing roses are:
Powdery mildew is caused by the fungus Sphaerotheca pannosa Lev. White spots appear on the leaves, which gradually grow. Powdery mildew develops rapidly in hot and humid weather, usually in late July - early August. Plant growth stops, flowering stops, and plant death may occur. As a preventive control measure, it is recommended to spray 2 times with Bordeaux liquid: along the sleeping buds after removing the shelter and along the growing (up to 20 cm) shoots.
Coniotirium (Coniothirium wersdorffiae Laub) - cancer of the bark, or "burn" of roses. Signs of the disease are detected when the shelter is removed in the spring. Initially, red-brown spots are formed on the bark of the shoots, which, growing, gradually turn black and can cover the entire shoot in a ring. The causative agent of the disease is located inside the tissue. The ringed shoots must be immediately cut out with the capture of the healthy part of the shoot and burned. The fungus develops most intensively in the dark under the winter shelter of roses for the winter, especially with high humidity. Preventive measures include reducing the dose of nitrogen in the fall, feeding with potash fertilizers to strengthen the tissues of the shoots, timely sheltering and airing during winter thaws, timely removing the shelter in the spring, pruning and destroying the affected shoots.
Climbing roses are used in the figured design of arches, gazebos, pyramids, garlands, columns, pergolas, fences, arbors for decorating the walls of buildings, balconies... Especially decorative are compositions created from groups of varieties of climbing roses, as well as climbing roses on high boles ..
The idea of using shrubs and trees as a support for climbing roses is not a human invention, but a way of life for these plants in the wild.... On a large tree, climbing roses appear in all their lush splendor. Not all trees and shrubs are suitable for supporting climbing roses. Since the rose grows very quickly, the support plant should be large and tall enough. Do not use plants with vigorous growing roots that are close to the surface of the soil, which are in strong competition with the roots of the rose. You can recommend: broom, irgu, hornbeam, mountain ash, apple, pear, mountain pine, yew, larch.
There are climbing varieties of roses that are distinguished by increased winter hardiness and other positive qualities. Below is a brief description of them.
The queen of tenderness, unpretentious beauty, tea-colored, characterized by abundant and long flowering from early spring. The variety is unpretentious, forgives inexperienced hands for flaws in care and grows quickly. The color of the leaves differs in a slightly paler coloration, in comparison with other varieties, which gives it a special tenderness in combination with other greens. Rose "Iceberg" tolerates frosty winters well.
The luxurious delicate color of a large-flowered bush with abundant flowering, has a bright aroma and flowering until late autumn. This grade is designed for massive supports, because its shoots are so powerful that experienced gardeners managed to form a standard tree without a frame. "Lavinia" is distinguished by good immunity to diseases and is able to winter without shelter in the middle lane.
Its unusual colors, which range from light cream to rich apricot, make this rose a favorite among landscape designers. It blooms up to three times a season, takes root well not only in the open field, but also in tubs. Winter hardy.
Bright large flowers and matte dark leaves can win any heart. This variety is unpretentious, resistant to diseases, undemanding to the soil and tolerates waterlogging with pleasure.
The luxurious red color of large roses of this variety attracts from afar. The flowers are medium in size, with a moderate aroma. It does not tolerate drafts, well suited for decorating walls or fences from a sunny, but protected from the wind side.
The rare white-pink color of this unpretentious variety has fallen in love with creative gardeners. The rose is relatively unpretentious, and even tolerates partial shade well. It blooms for a long time and profusely. The plant is resistant to frost and pests. This variety can be grown without support, provided it is neat and correct.
The liana rose is simply strewn with small double flowers at the height of the flowering season. The bush is a modern work of breeders, it is distinguished by a high growth rate of shoots of the second and third order, unpretentiousness and stability. It is very spiked, but if you have dexterity, it does not interfere with care.
Terry large flowers of bright yellow color and unique aroma are suitable for any support. Glossy large leaves, excellent immunity, good coexistence with other plants, tolerance to partial shade.
A very large, vigorous bush. Flowers are not afraid of rain. An unpretentious variety, with green dense foliage and a bright characteristic aroma. Flowering is continuous from mid-summer to late autumn.
An upright bush with luxurious double roses. A convenient option for vertical supports and boles. Growth is moderate, flowering is long, in autumn it reaches the most powerful bright flowers. It blooms quickly in hot seasons, so it is advisable to choose partial shade for the southern regions.
A rare, unpretentious, but very thorny variety with luxurious large yellow flowers. It is not afraid of frost, has resistance to fungal diseases, withstands direct sunlight and blooms continuously throughout the season.
In conclusion, we can say that climbing roses are a special part of landscape design. Their originality and versatility is harmoniously combined with any style - from luxury to country. Roses so ennoble the territory with their presence that they are called the queens of gardens for a reason. Caring for them is simple, there are a great many varieties, so there is a favorite even for the most demanding taste.